What is the first thing asked by a ADM Sprinter or USDM SR5 owner on the forums? 9 out of 10 will ask what it takes to do a 4A-C to 4A-GE swap… Why? Is it really necessary? We show you the unpopular (yet super cool) alternative!
As you can see: RaccoonRacing’s 4A-C with a set of Mikuni sidedrafts can sound even more impressive than the stock 4A-GE! After his weber manifold broke he created a manifold for a set Mikunis (taken of a motorcycle) instead.
You can also build the ultimate 4A-C from the ground up using a 7 rib block. Add to that custom 11:1 compression forged pistons, a huge port and polish and runners twice as big as stock, a 282 degree cam from Schneider Racing, a 38 Weber and a NOS fogger in the intake manifold and you have this monster:
Why go through the trouble of a complete build from scratch and spend more money on a 4A-C than you could buy a low mileage 4A-GZE? As und-R-steer defends his insane 4A-C engine:
“I did it cause I wanted to. I did it to prove that any engine can be fast, if it’s built correctly.
…… and you don’t have to have a dual cam to go fast. Thats why.
The first engine I ever had was a 4ac, and to beat a 4ag, ….it’s all I need.”
Beating a 4A-GE with a 4A-C is one thing, but his aim is to get eventually over the 200hp mark! That would be pretty impressive for an unwanted engine! :)
Most of the time my advice to the SR5 owner is to keep the 4A-C where it is and start with the handling of the car first! What use is a 4A-GE on an unbalanced car anyway?
If you seek more 4A-C info, go to the 4AC-powered forums. They do amazing things over there!
16 Responses to Why You Should Keep Your 4A-C