So this is something my wonderful wife suggested and i have been thinking about for a while now. Going to give fair warning - this is a mental health exercise lol.
Ive got a bunch of plans and dreams and ideas for my little car. I "know" they wont get realised anytime in the foreseeable future. But with all the waiting and such for treatment etc, i need to keep my mind busy.
So ive decided this will be a "pretend" build thread. One of you cool lads from the "we need to talk thread" pointed out dreams are free and planning, problem solving and just plain imagining take nothing but time and enthusiasm. So here i am. Im going to try and keep it realistic. This is not meant to be a "wishlist" of the perfect ke70 for a bazzillion dollars. But a genuine record of plans and ideas that i would like to be able to go ahead with at some stage, or slowly collect parts and make do as i can.
so first up, goals? Im working on the premise that for now, the left leg isnt going to work as god intended. Ive played in the mrs car just moving it around the drive way and i can use the clutch fine, but i cant lift my leg in anyway to get it on an off the pedal. So first up is the decision to stick to an auto. But i still want a fun little car to enjoy the hills roads we have at our doorstep with anna and leo and just generally enjoy what i always did, just having a good fun time in the sled. Eventually the odd hillclimb and track day would be great, but fun street car is the main aim.
Reliable. lol.this is probably very counter intuitive given a: im not the best mechanic in the world and b: im doing non standard things that invariably wont work as intended lol. But reliability is important. i need to trust that the little girl will star when i need, and not randomly shit herself halfway to hobart lol.
So what have i got ? well im glad you asked
i have silver sally ...
i have a fwd gen 4 beams 3sge...
i have a bunch of bits and pieces to rwd said engine... ie sump, water lines, water fittings etc. Its my understanding i will also have to replace the head gasket with a rwd beams as the water circuit changes somewhat. so to this end, the engine will get a very basic freshen up with new gaskets and seals etc as she gets rwd'd...
now onto the rest of the pretending lol.
one of these will make fitting my blacktop quads very easy, and makes fitting the engine a touch easier...
sam is also working on a much slimmer rear water setup for the engines that will make fitting a bit easier also.
havnt decided if i will use the 3sge engine mounts and mod the cross member, or keep the crossmember intact and fab mounts. there are bolt in kits available... but they space the crossmember 25mm and fuck about with the front swaybar. im not sure how big of a problem this is, but given the sump on these sits so fucking low as it is dropping the crossmember to gain room seems like ill be dropping the sump that little bit lower too... annnnnd these kits are for the manual box. from rigorous study of the interweb lol it looks as though the taper on the auto gearbag bell housing is much steeper than the manual. this is the usual cause of fitment dramas so if the auto bag does allow for more room, then id prefer to keep the geometry standardish and avoid spacing things if i can.
As far as i have been able to work out, the auto behind the rwd beams is a a650e 5 speed. Now my only experiance so far with auto's has been the horrid 3 speed shitbag in the ke already lol. I know nothing about how they work or anything. So what i have managed to figure out i think is with the electronic control, i have a few options...
apparently fully programmable shift points pressures etc etc. Makes mention it works with any auto using 2 shift solenoids? and most toyota boxs? BUUUUT only makes mention of 4sp autos in the paperwork. so im not sure if it can do the 5 speed or not? This a pretty cheap option, and shifting is done by simple toggle switches, which i THINK should be easy enough to make up? or am i kidding myself? was thinking simple flappy paddles?
then there is these guys... a bit more money, but i THINK these are the ones al used on the cool bmw rebuild? and they seem to be a bit more versatile so possibly more likely to run the 5 speed? they have a wiring loom for the a340e but dont list one for the a650e...
they also have their own range of flappy paddles that are wireless...
if indeed i am too useless to make my own switches lol...
So thats the fun go part... with manualised control of the 5 speed i should still be able to have fun and some entertainment in a light car with 200hp? Oh and last bit for the auto, i figure it will help when i put a towball on the old girl. living in the semi rurals of buttfuck nowhere, means we only get rubbish pickup once a fortnight and we only get half size bins. so we are forever doing dump runs. So im thinking a tiny little trailer for rubbish runs and bits and pieces should be well doable with the auto in regular d for dickhead mode?
Onto the diff. Was initially going to go a f series rebuild with trd 2way. But having priced that up and the fact its WAYYYY overkill for a mild na 3sge with a fairly significant weight penalty, i was thinking of running a late model tseries with trd 2way and going with fingers crossed action that the auto and a general mechanical sympathy on my part would help it live a long and fruitful life. then again, for peace of mind, this looks like a "reasonable"
They modify the trd 2way in house and custom make their own axles etc to the larger diameter of 28mm. And claim its more than adequate for 300hp, which the 3sge will never reach id say... designed for turbo or supercharged cars so the "softer" power of na should also be of a benefit in keeping it alive???
not overly cheap, in the end i think the diff would cost a total of about 3g to get all sorted and in the car but if it means reliability and longevity its money well spent?
externally i actually have a few jobs i "might" be able actually do. the guards all need a bit of cleaning up. mainly a skim of bog a some finish work so they dont look fucking rough s hell lol.
i also have a set of repo chrome bumpers and quad lights set to be fitted for hella jdm points bro! lol. i also have a fucked front stub axle. cant tighten the wheel bearing properly. i have spare stubs and was going to do some cutting and welding to repair and replace... but im concerned ill make a shit job of it or get some important angle wrong or something??? they are base height adjustables. so essentially cut the fucked stub off the threaded tube and weld onto the fresh stub.....
a replacement is only 200$ so i dont know if i should just play it safe and buy fresh? i dont want a wheel falling off lol.
There is a small electrical gremlin at the moment that means she wont start reliably. turn the key and nothing. the lights all come on and the charger says the battery is fine, but turn the key and nothing.
then wiggle things around the battery and half the time she springs to life like a poked cat lol.
i want a towbar fitted. just a stocko ke one, nothing fancy. id happily make one myself but getting under the car for measurements is not going to happen any time soon lol. and i really have no idea if you are allowed to make your own? or how lol??
All these little jobs are easy enough to achieve when i can get some help to do things. but general slowness and troubles getting up and down mean they wont happen overnight lol.
nice and out of the way with nothing in the back of the car or taking up spare wheel space.
any advice on quiet lift pumps??? and a decent but not stupid pressure pump??? like i said she is only a slightly horny na engine.....
i have A FRESH stainless exhaust flange and matched inserts to start an exhaust manifold... was thinking 1.75 primaries and 2 secondaries into a 2.5...one resonator and a decent muffler.... happy for advice on stuff that sounds nice without being raspy or loud as fuck lol. this will also be over diff exhaust for clearance.... and ive always hated the look of an under diff exhast on solid rear ends lol...
oh and in todays win, i managed to score thanks to our mate lazy a ke70 tow bar
Johl there was nothing really in it. The numbers are close to what trd run. But more importantly they were what I have squirreled away from work before I got sick. So besides a donated 2inch to 2.5inch taper it cost me nothing.
The taper is reasonably close to what the maths says it should be for proper reversions according to burns and those guys. I tried to make my own but just couldn't manage it neat enough with the limited tools I have (and skill lol)
It's not a normal or correct mix of metals etc. But it's what I have and will work well enough for long enough to keep the project rolling in some sort of fashion.
Once the engine is in and running I'll put together a full custom header with much longer primaries. That seems to be the main difference in the stock and the trd etc. Maybe Conrad can help me out with some dimensions ? [emoji14]
Does anyone know what the fucking locknut type washer cap things are called for the axle nut bolt ? I stupidly lost the one off the front when I pulled it apart and can't for the life of me find em anywhere..
So for the last week or so I've been trying to keep some enthusiasm going and looking at fitting the "radical" seats.
Possibly the ugliest things ever. So awesome. Started on the passenger side for the simple reason that the drivers door was too close to the trees for easy access lol.
Had absolutely no idea what I was planning. Figured I would wing it. Pulled the old seats out and laid both of them on the bonnet. Started scratching a plan together.
Ground out the connecting pins on the ke rails and split the bottom mounts. (did remember to get a centerline measurement for future lol)
Then the first hiccup. Ke seats are effectively flat. Hence the mounts are also flat.
Gtr seats are not flat. Hmmm.
I wanted to keep things like slide and stuff. So heaps of chopping was beyond me. So I worked with giving myself a flat purchase on the high side and building up the low side. #careful measurement followed showing a 35mm height difference.
A bit of head scratching came up with this....
Flat 3mm stainless to clear all the connecting studs and bits and pieces.
35mm steps on the low side. I was concerned maybe there wasn't enough support. But the frame is 3mm steel. And there is nearly 100mm of weld for each connection point... Originally they were held on with single connection pins.
About done.. still upside down but hey... At this point things were only really tacked together. Was a planning on a dry run to ensure fitting before final welding. But couldnt face a trip to the car and back lol. #lazycunt just welded it up and fingers crossed....
Bloody lovely still have to pull the seat out again to paint the rails etc. But yeah she fits a treat. I was a bit concerned with the spacing up I was losing out on height. But the new seats are a good 15 or 20mm lower than the old ones. And I'm not exactly a tall cunt lol.
Got the Mrs out to check her new throne. Got the thumbs up. Now just need to kick on and fit the drivers lol.
In other news. Found someone even more retarded than me. He wants the engine auto and diff for some sort of project. He asked what I wanted for it. Told him if he wants it, come and take it. He pulls it out it's all his and no backsies.
He is swapping me a stock ke fuel tank so I can modify it for efi without having to pull mine out
So things are getting frighteningly close to a semi level of completion. With old mate coming to take the driveline I will have to wait till I get a replacement diff to do the exhaust fabrication. But with the old engine out I can get in, clean the bay up, do a few bits and pieces in preparation for putting the big dog in lol.
Also was thinking about adjustable arms for the rear. Want to stick to proper bushings, so was thinking the "oncar adjustable turnbuckles" for the pan hard rod and the lower diff arms. But I can't seem to find any ? Probably because I'm retarded and using search criteria like "smurf dick" and stuff. Anyone got any tips on these things ? Or at least give me a proper name for them lol
Something got lost in translation. I assumed (dick head lol) that the seats and rails would be actually or closely identical from passenger to drivers side.
So I figured I'd be doing the same 35mm leveling stacks.
Pulled the seat and got to checking, just to be sure. Measured and measured. Scratched my head and measured again. Came up with 25mm and 10mm as the diferences.
Oh well, powered on and flushed with the success of the first seat I even duly welded and painted the rails before fitting them.
And you guessed it. Off by 20 ish mm on the high side. Be fucked how I did it. But all was not lost. Tracked down another longer bolt (still rated) and spaced the underside of the rail appropriately. No one will ever know. But it offends my sense of the lovely lol.
Trying to keep the enthusiasm going (Leo really loves being in the car these days, climbs around and plays with ad much craps as he can lol) I decided to refit the battery and move the Rolla onto ramps and such ...
Dickhead fits the battery backwards. I'll not lie. There was smoke. A little. Looks like I've cooked a fusible link. I don't know what that is lol. But it looks like I need to replace it with something a touch more modern anyways.
Going trend seems to be a generic 80amp blade fuse for efi conversion ?
Onto other thoughts.
I want to make my own pan hard rod and lower trailing arms adjustable. I know I'm a retard. But I'm having trouble getting my head around these.
As far as I can figure in my head, it's a double threaded section with a small section for the spanner to grab. The threaded sections are opposites, so one is left hand and one right hand. These fit into female threaded sections so as you move the centre spindle it goes in or out of both... Am I on the right track ?
What are they called ? I try searching "turnbuckle" but come up with fishing Shit or fancy wire stuff for in house fences from bunnings lol. I found one kit but it's for 25mm bars (commodore) so don't think it will work for mine ... I'm too crook to get under the car and measure the bars right now. But if anyone had any Leeds on where to find some of these.... Like I said I need 3 sets lol
Also looking at lengthening my lca on the front. Nothing fancy, but what would people's suggestions be on added length? Do I just aim to fill the guards or is there some magic numbers ? ke70 seem to be 300 long.
Not that you can tell lol but I gave the engine bay a clean. Some sca alloy wheel cleaner sprayed on and given a scrub with an old brush. Worked pretty well. The old girl is in such Good Nick really. Old mate who pulled the engine yesterday was so excited that every nut and bolt he touched worked lol. Everything on his ke is rusted as fuck poor guy. He thought he was in heaven a man with standards very similar to my own
I'm going to pull some / all non essential bits and give the girl some love while she has her skirts up. First of will be the chassis support brackets for the chassis to firewall connection. I'll do some basic seam welding also. Inch in inch off was how we did it with yt. Any reasons I'd do spot welding instead ?
Am getting a bit bummed as I have hit the wall again with funding lol.
Once I have done the headlight wiring and built the rotisserie it's going to be a log slow a log to get the money together to sort the final assembly of things.
#mainly for my own listing...
Rear Nissan cradle / diff assembly 4.3 2 way.
Wideband and controller
Slimline rear water/oil housing
Trumpets and filter arrangement
Ke30 brake booster (much smaller)
Clutch master and remote reservoir
That's a basic list of purchase to get the car going.
I also have a desire to mount a late model dash cluster of some sort. I REALLY would love a altezza rs200 dash with the swapped tachometer and Speedo. But talk about drug money. Only one I can find is 800$ ffs. Regular is200 is much cheaper but harder to find in manual. Have been googling different cars for inspiration and I must admit I don't hate the rav 4 cluster. Not as cool as the altezza version, but cheaper and would work as well.. But this is far from a necessity. More of a challenge because ...
I'm still very keen to do tubular front suspension setup, but again coin. It's only about 600 in rod ends and materials but that takes an awful long time to collect lol ...
I get bursts of enthusiasm in between hospital visits lol.
So the old girl has been on her side for a few weeks now, and hasn't blown over... Yay
As you can see there is some pretty average looking sills.
In my earlier days I was a little less than precise with the Jack...and there was a few beaching incidents lol
Anyways have had a plan to try and clean things up but have been putting it off for months.
Decided to dive right in.
Perfect from far, but far from perfect lol. It's a lot better than it was and will tidy up just fine with a bit of paint after I do the seam sealing.
There has been a slight change in direction. Because reasons, I am swapping the beams out for a 1uzfe. Long story but essentially I have received my permanent disability payout. After doing all the responsible things I have been left with a modest little budget to finish the little rolla. Won't be anything stupid or amazing. But it will be tidy and fun
Who knows when it will get finished. Now it's purely a case of mental health. I don't know how long I'll live for. So having things to get up for each morning help me day to day. I may never finish her. But I enjoy every minute of learning and playing and bashing her with a hammer. Without this lump of legal to play with I would have given up a long time ago